3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Benefits:Anti-Aging Evens Skin Tone, Dark Spot Fading
Categories:Antioxidant
3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid at a Glance
3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Description
3-O ethyl ascorbic acid is a stable, water- and oil-soluble derivative of pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that offers all of the primary benefits vitamin C is known for, such as brightening, wrinkle reduction, visible firming, fading hyperpigmentation to restore a more even skin tone and offsetting numerous triggers of environmental damage.
As a modified and more stable version of pure vitamin C, 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid must be converted to vitamin C within skin by sodium-dependent proteins. This process within skin’s surface layers helps ensure skin benefits.
Due to the conversion to pure vitamin C being a slower process, 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid is considered a more tolerable form of vitamin C. However, like pure vitamin C, the ethyl form requires an acidic pH range (4–5.5) for optimum stability. This pH range is higher than what ascorbic acid needs for ideal stability, making 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid an intriguing alternative if your skin hasn’t been able to tolerate higher-strength (10% and up) vitamin C (ascorbic acid) products.
Research has shown which non-irritating ingredients aid the penetration of this ingredient into skin’s surface, and they include pentylene glycol, glycerin, 1,2 hexanediol, diisostearyl malate and various propylene glycol derivatives, although this list is not exhaustive.
Usage levels of 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid in skin care typically fall between 0.5–5%. Due to its stability, lesser amounts are needed compared with pure vitamin C. Levels above 5% may also be used, depending on desired benefits. Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples.
Some also refer to this ingredient as ethyl ascorbic acid.
3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid References
Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2021, pages 151–169Life, May 2021, pages 1–13
International Journal of Pharmaceutics, December 2019, pages 1–9
Journal of Cosmetic Science, July-August 2018, pages 233–243
AAPS PharmSciTech, June 2016, pages 767–777
Peer-reviewed, substantiated scientific research is used to assess ingredients in this dictionary. Regulations regarding usage constraints, permitted concentration levels and availability vary by country and region.